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| Video Production Ideas Ideas for man-on-the-street (MOTS), testimonials, parodies and more. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to tdangelo For This Useful Post: | ||
voyager529 (Monday, May 11th, 2009) | ||
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| The video appears to have been shot with a single primary light source directly above and just in front of the subject. It looks like a softbox on a single spotlight adjusted to minimize spill so that the light is shining down the subject's face. Having the spotlight bright enough will allow you to compensate with the exposure of the camera so that the background goes completely black while the face is properly exposed. |
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| This is called a "limbo" background, and it's very easy to achieve with traditional methods. Use a very dark non-reflective background -- navy blue, dark grey, black -- in the studio, it would be a black cyc. Don't light the cyc at all, and have the talent far enough away from the background that the key and fill lighting doesn't hit the cyc (they are typically 45 degrees to either side of the lens axis, and 45 degrees above horizontal, so for a six foot tall person standing, they would be at least ten feet out. Adding a back light (about 22 degrees off vertical) will give the head and shoulders a bright rim that accentuates the foreground - background separation. (Yes, I just described classic three-point lighting.) Here's the important thing: you will need to override the automatic iris setting to stop down, because your scene will be well below the mid-grey average the servo is calibrated for. Otherwise, skin tones will be grossly overexposed and the background becomes visible. A waveform monitor is very useful for getting this right. It also helps if the subject's clothing is mid-range, so it neither competes with facial features nor melts into the background. If you're after an edgier look, reducing or eliminating the fill and back lights will greatly accentuate the shadows, as will moving the key farther off-axis. Incidentally, the opposite technique is used for "anonymous talking head" shots: use a very light background and light it thoroughly, especially directly behind the subject. Make sure the person is completely unlit, and set iris to properly expose the background. JLHyde touches on depth of field... newer cameras are sensitive enough that you might need to add a neutral density filter in order to get the iris open sufficiently. Both effects rely on the relatively limited dynamic range of video (or film) compared to the human eye. As I recall, a person with average vision can resolve about a 16-stop range; film, around 10-12; and video, about 8 stops. -- Jeff |
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![]() -- Jeff |
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| You can achieve this look even with a low-end camera like the JVC Everio that I have to use and a very small budget. You just need a large space (I used out sanctuary and cleared the background behind the subject), your camera, and decent lighting. The lighting is VERY crucial. We can't afford a professional light so I built one from WalMart parts (ask if you want details). You can see an example of the first video I made in this style after building the video light on our Vimeo account at vimeo.com/hcmedia . You can also see an example of what it can look like without proper lighting (before I built the light). The latest video in this style turned out even better but I haven't uploaded it. Instead of only using the key light (front main light) I also used a backlight to give the subject a more distinct outline. |
| The Following User Says Thank You to turbomitch For This Useful Post: | ||
petereit (Wednesday, July 8th, 2009) | ||
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| I've followed this thread for awhile now, so I thought I would thrown in my attempt at achieving "iamsecond-ness". I used a large room with a single light source from above. He was far enough away from the things in the room that I didn't need to use a backdrop. It was pretty simple to achieve just using the aperture on my camera (Canon xh-a1). It's the testimony listed here...www.vimeo.com/user1245518 |