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  #13 (permalink)  
Old Tuesday, March 8th, 2011, 03:52 PM
Esoteric's Avatar
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A Unison Rack doesn't have some of the processing capabilities that the Sensor rack does. Both of those racks function with individual dimmer "blades" or "modules" that actually have the dimming hardware in them. The Sensor rack can use some of the modules that the Unison can not. Also there are capabilities that Sensor computer has that the Unison does not.

But the Unison racks are also 40% cheaper and for 75% of churches they are more than full featured.

Mike
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old Tuesday, March 8th, 2011, 04:01 PM
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Look at the 500W and 1000W rectangular work lights you get at a hardware store. Also the rectangular outdoor flood lights.
Those would function like a scoop, but should be much cheaper. They also could take more physical abuse from flying balls in your gym than a theatrical scoop could.

Be sure to get the Halogen lights, since they can be dimmed. Many of the rectangular work lights are going fluorescent or other non-dimable lights.
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old Tuesday, March 8th, 2011, 05:10 PM
Tyler Herron

 
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That's an interesting suggestion EmilBarnabas. The only problem I have with that is that appearance. Having those work lights hanging around on the ceiling won't really look that great. The scoops won't be great either, but they'll look less out of place than the yellow work lights.

Unless there is something you could do to the lights to make them more appealing?

Mike, what types of features would the other 15% churches need that the Unison doesn't have in order to justify buying the Sensor?

-Tyler Herron
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old Tuesday, March 8th, 2011, 06:43 PM
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For one thing, the Unison rack only accepts 5, 10, 15, and 20 Amp Dimmer Modules while the Sensor can accept 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 50, and 100 Amp modules. In addition the Sensor can use Constant Circuit and Fluorescent modules. The Sensor CEM+ module interfaces fully with with ETCNet2 and can accept ethernet control. You can also use Sensor+Connect to monitor the rack or make adjustments. You can get a GFCI or Delta version of the Sensor, that you can not with the Unison. You can get a sinewave version of the Sensor Rack.

The list goes on. They are all minor variations, but necessary for some applications.

Mike
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old Wednesday, March 9th, 2011, 11:24 AM
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That isn't accurate, or at least not entirely. Unison dimming racks will accept Constant circuit modules(CC20) and Florescent modules (D20F). The Unison CMEi is fully network capable with ETC Net2 and accepts direct ethernet in.

While it is true that you can't get a DRd rack with GFCI, the Sensor GFCI rack is a different model than the Sensor+. It also costs more than the standard Sensor+. Same thing with the Sinewave Rack. Comparing apples to apples, the only thing you gain by using a Sensor+ rack over a Unison DR rack is 50amp and 100amp modules and the ability to use Sensor Connect to log into the CEM. The Unison DRd also has an optional ride-thru module that will serve as an emergency backup when the power cuts out, something the CEM+ can't do.

In my opinion, if you are putting in less than 49 circuits, you will save money and be just as capable using a Drd cabinet over a Sensor+ SR24 or an SR48. The benefits of Sensor do not make themselves known until you reach the upper level of space/power concerns.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old Wednesday, March 9th, 2011, 11:26 AM
Tyler Herron

 
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Are those dimmer modules per channel, or is it # Amps per 2 channels? Aren't most racks paired to 2 circuits per module?

What is constant circuit? Would that be like a circuit you could plug a DMX controlled light, like a mover, or LED into? I know you can't plug those fixtures into a dimmer, just a wall outlet, is that what it is? I'm assuming the fluorescent modules are for, well, dimming the dimmable fluoros? We wouldn't need that, but constant circuit might be nice if that's what it is.

Ethernet control would be nice. We use Chamsys MagicQ PC so that might be a little more reliable control protocol.

Is Connect a PC software? If so, that would be wonderful to have. We could keep the rack locked away and make all adjustments from the console computer.

I don't know what GFCI, Delta, or sinewave versions are. So I don't know if those would be worth looking into.

I've never been able to grasp dimmer racks completely so bear with me as I ask a lot of questions!

-Tyler Herron
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old Wednesday, March 9th, 2011, 08:32 PM
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I would recommend that you get some good quality 12 ch racks,
I find that some of the older style racks like RANK , STRAND , JANDS
where very well made, and have stould the test of time well.
And are usually easily fixed.
Or even buy new if you can, but get good quality !
My racks are now 20 years old, but they were exceptionally well made.
And only need minor repairs from time to time.
Unless money is real tight, I would not use packs for a permanent instal.
Remember with high currents that are usually found in these types of control
systems, It only takes a small problem to equall big problems.
There are some areas where you can save,
But in this area I prefer not to take chances.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old Thursday, March 10th, 2011, 10:46 AM
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I currently design, sell and service ETC systems.
Answers in bold

jthtiger said: Are those dimmer modules per channel, or is it # Amps per 2 channels? Aren't most racks paired to 2 circuits per module?

Most permanent racks are modular, details vary. In ETC land it's 2 dimmers at 20A each in a standard module.
Making a reliable dimmer isn't hard these days, there are lots of good basic ones. Base your choice on quality, features and serviceability. Swapping out a module is easy, fixing the electronics is not.

What is constant circuit? Would that be like a circuit you could plug a DMX controlled light, like a mover, or LED into? I know you can't plug those fixtures into a dimmer, just a wall outlet, is that what it is?

Yes and no. They are circuit breakers only, no other control. Some movers are fine on them, but some have fans that run constantly and/or electronics that don't "sleep." Those are best to turn off with a relay module, which is good for all non-dim types.

I'm assuming the fluorescent modules are for, well, dimming the dimmable fluoros? We wouldn't need that, but constant circuit might be nice if that's what it is.

There are actually 4 ways to dim dimmable FL. Ask if you need more info.

Ethernet control would be nice. We use Chamsys MagicQ PC so that might be a little more reliable control protocol.

Sorry, DMX is far more reliable than Ethernet. Especially if it is a permanently installed system not portable cables strung thru the ceiling. Of course the PC is the weakest link.

Is Connect a PC software? If so, that would be wonderful to have. We could keep the rack locked away and make all adjustments from the console computer.

"Sensor Connect" is really just a web server access into the rack configuration. Any PC will work. A couple of years ago ETC completely upgraded the Unison line. There are 2 types of processors one very limited and inexpensive and no network at all. The other is fully networked and capable of extensive detailed control.

Still relevant is the monitoring (if you know what to look for) and the large and/or exotic dimmer types. A Unison 48 channel system is physically much larger than a Sensor type as it's 2 racks and an interconnect panel adding up to about 4' wide.

The short answer is if you need "architectural" functions (buttons and sliders on the wall) then you need a Unison system. Many places have a Unison with or without dimmers linked to a Sensor rack for a best of both worlds scenario. That is what Mike is recommending.

I don't know what GFCI, Delta, or sine-wave versions are. So I don't know if those would be worth looking into.

Sine-wave is the only one likely to show up in a church. They prevent the hum that incandescent lights make when dimmed. High end concert halls use them so one flute can be heard in a 5000 seat theater, without mics!

I've never been able to grasp dimmer racks completely so bear with me as I ask a lot of questions!

-Tyler Herron

Thats what we are here for!
You may need to get some real advice from a local pro. Hiring a consultant will save you money! Get a clear idea of what you need, want, will grow into and how much you can afford now and may get later. There are lots of things are easy later and some that aren't.


BTW - I second D.R.HADDOCK's comments. Portable packs if you need to move it. Installation is far better and usually cheaper for permanent.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old Friday, March 11th, 2011, 10:04 PM
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Rick is absolutely correct. CC20's are available for Unison racks. I have never used a D20F in a Unison rack. Indeed there are multiple ways to dim florescents, I still believe I remember a certain fluorescent dimming being only available in a Sensor rack. I need to go read some more tonight to freshen up. DMX is more reliable than Ethernet. But DMX over Belden cable and DMXoE are equally good if installed correctly.

I need to do some new reading on Unison racks. I mostly design and install Smartracks and Sensor racks. Haven't done a whole lot of Unison since the legacy days.

Mike
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old Sunday, March 13th, 2011, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jthtiger View Post
That's an interesting suggestion EmilBarnabas. The only problem I have with that is that appearance. Having those work lights hanging around on the ceiling won't really look that great. The scoops won't be great either, but they'll look less out of place than the yellow work lights.

Unless there is something you could do to the lights to make them more appealing?
Paint the lights to match the ceiling. I refurbish a lot of old stage lights and use high-temperature engine enamel to paint them.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old Monday, March 14th, 2011, 04:30 PM
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Whilst these types of lights ( J - type tungsten halogen ).
can eaisily be painted with high temp paint.
I have found them to be rather high in maintenance,
Dirty contacts are a constant problem,
And availibility of good quality lamps is another issue.
So unless they are easy to access,
I would not reccomend there use
for house lights.
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