does watts matter?

[Amazing001]

Thanks everyone! the rep at BulbAmerica insists that its a bad power line that has caused the 3 bulbs to blow and one to shatter. ?????

anyway, they are sending samples for us to test out to "guarantee" we have the right bulb.

thanks you guys!

[Steve Vanciel]

Originally Posted by Amazing001

the rep at BulbAmerica insists that its a bad power line that has caused the 3 bulbs to blow and one to shatter.

Yet, the 300W bulbs have no problems with the power line?
Incandescent lamps are a purely resistive load and can easily deal with a lot of variation in the power supply. It is only if they are powered significantly over their rated voltage that the life span will suffer. And of course, they will be a whole lot brighter (and hotter) during that shorter life time.
According to my handy Phillips/Barbizon reference scale, a lamp at 105% of its rated voltage will provide 108% of its rated wattage but only have 50% of its rated life. For a 120V lamp that would be 126V. Unless you have a VERY hot power grid, this is voltage unlikely to occur at the output of a solid state dimmer. Furthermore, it would be effecting everything plugged into the power lines.

Do you know someone that knows how to use a multi-meter who could verify the voltages in the system? Check the voltage supply to the dimmers first. The output of each dimmer when set at full should be in the 110 to 120 volt range (slightly less than the supply voltage level).
{NOTE: meter with a lamp plugged into the dimmer channel being tested to get an accurate reading. SCR dimmers will meter at full voltage even when set to 00 output unless there is a load attached. For the most accurate readings, use a True RMS Voltage Meter as opposed to a cheaper averaging meter.}

SteveV
Orlando, FL

[D.R.HADDOCK]

If the lamps are shattering, this suggests either excess vibration, too much heat, or most likely cheap lamps, but the type of 500w lamps typically used in the upgrade kits dont have a very long life any way, typically 400hrs,(there are long life lamps available, but most are not). when you compare 400hrs to the typical rating of a good par 56 lamp which is 2000hrs you can see why people would be conserned.
(check with major lamp manufactor for the long life lamps)
they are not common but are available.
I dont buy my lamps from resellers any more, as i had simular problems with poor quality, buy only from major reputable companys like Philips/Osram or GE.
The extra effort and extra cost is rewarded by better quality.

[theatre4jc]

I have been using the same 500W PAR Lamps in my fixtures for 6 years (yeah i know!). We do roughly 180-200 shows a year running the lamps about 5-6 hours a show. That puts my lamp life at roughly 7200 hours on the same 500W PAR56 Lamps. I only use Phillips lamps. I have some freaking cheap China PAR56s and haven't had any issues out of them. Unless there is something bad wrong with those lights, then it is a lamp problem. I feel very confident in saying you have bad lamps and should get them from another manufacturer. I would recommend buying from www.atrlighting.com. I have been buying from them for years and have never been disappointed. I met the owners once, godly men. (That's why I buy from them). Go Phillips or GE and I think your problem will be fixed.

[Lucas]

Can't help but ask "Watts the matter?"

[tedanderson]

But does it matter if I go to Watts?

[waynehoskins]

Originally Posted by tedanderson

But does it matter if I go to Watts?

Yes, you usually need at least 75 watts' load on the power device for it to operate correctly. Two isn't enough.

[tedanderson]

That was actually rhetorical joke in response to Lucas.

I was referring to the residential district in Los Angeles.

[Esoteric]

Going to Watts is my worst nightmare.

All I can say is watts love got to do with it?

Mike